Exploring the Banni Grasslands: Rural Communities and the Craft Traditions of Kutch

The Banni - this vast, low-lying grassland at the southern edge of the Great Rann of Kutch’s salt desert - has quietly redefined what I seek when I’m in India. I’ve always thrived on the energy of the big cities, the chaos and colour and constant movement. But something about the Banni has shifted that in me. Out there, in its open emptiness, I feel a rare kind of stillness. In a world that’s always online, always connected, the Banni is one of the few places where I feel truly disconnected, in the best possible way.

The Banni grasslands are home to pastoral communities, most of whom are cattle herders. Many of them trace their roots back to regions like Sindh and Haleputra, having migrated generations ago. They’ve traditionally settled near small water sources, scarce across this vast, arid plain - though the sea occasionally floods parts of the land, isolating entire villages for days at a time.

Many of the communities here are Muslim clans such as the Mutva, Node, and Pathan. Some of their homes, known as Bhungas, are round, one-room structures - both practical and beautifully crafted. Many of these Bhungas, are decorated with Lippan Kaam - a striking form of mud and mirror work that frames windows and walls with delicate patterns. It’s a beautiful sight, adding richness and texture to an otherwise quiet, desert landscape.

Many of the communities living across the Banni are deeply involved in different forms of embroidery, each with their own distinct identity. I’ve personally been especially drawn to the work of Mutva women. Their embroidery feels particularly refined - delicate, precise, and incredibly intricate. It’s one of the more detailed forms of Kutchi embroidery, with its tiny stitches and mirror work laid out in beautifully complex patterns. Their craftsmanship is so exquisite that it’s often emulated by other communities, and their pieces are highly sought after in the market for exactly that reason.

After years of in-depth, thoughtful on-the-ground research, we’re in a fortunate position to offer small, intimate journeys into the Banni - either as part of a group or on a private, tailormade basis. Our visits to the villages here are approached with great care, always respecting the relationships we’ve nurtured over time. We also gently ask our guests to be mindful - there are certain communities we don’t photograph, and we encourage keeping social media sharing to a minimum out of respect for the people and the place.

If the Banni is somewhere you feel drawn to explore, do reach out, we’d love to help craft something special just for you.